Brilliance and Fire: A Biography of Diamonds

Summary (from the publisher): "A diamond is forever." Who among us doesn’t recognize this phrase and, with it, the fascination that these shiny gemstones hold in our collective imagination as symbols of royalty, stars, and eternal love? But who gave us this catchphrase? Where do these gemstones and their colorful legacies originate? How did they become our culture’s symbol of engagement and marriage? Why have they retained their coveted status throughout the centuries?

Rachelle Bergstein’s cultural biography of the diamond illuminates the enticing, often surprising, story of our society’s enduring obsession with the hardest gemstone—and the people who have worked tirelessly to ensure their continued allure. From the South African mines where most diamonds have been sourced since the late 1890s to the companies who have fought to monopolize them; from the stars who have dazzled in them to the people behind the scenes who have carefully crafted our understanding of their value—Brilliance and Fire offers a glittering history of the world’s most coveted gemstone and its greatest champions and most colorful enthusiasts.

Illustrated with sixteen pages of color photographs, this “biography” is filled with tantalizing anecdotes of the likes of Wallis Simpson, for whom Cartier created their iconic diamond-encrusted panther bracelet; Elizabeth Taylor, who made her numerous lovers prove their adoration through the gems they bestowed upon her; and “Jacob the Jeweler” and Ben Baller, the edgy contemporary jewelers who create custom bling for hip-hop stars from Jay-Z to Kanye. Smart, lively, and engaging, Brilliance and Fire is as dazzling as the very diamonds Bergstein reveals in a new light.

 

Review: I received an uncorrected proof copy of this book from HarperCollins.

 

Rachelle Bergstein provides us with a fascinating cultural biography of the diamond. Largely focusing on the diamond from the nineteenth century onward, this work of non-fiction details the source of diamonds, the diamond engagement ring's rise to prominence, famous jewelers known for selling diamonds, the marketing and image of the gem, and many stories of the famous individuals who are known for their jewels.

 

Although Bergstein does not delve greatly into the history of diamonds before the 1800s, she does explain that before the fifteenth century, diamonds were worn almost exclusively by men. The first woman known to wear diamonds was Agnes Sorel, "mistress of King Charles VII of France" in the mid-1400s (47). Yet today, nearly 80% of couples buy a diamond engagement ring. Bergstein efficiently details the many forces at work, both economically and socially, that led to this powerful change in association and practice. Bergstein explains that around the turn of the twentieth century, the practice of giving an engagement ring had some historical precedent, but it was not a widespread practice. Furthermore, at this point, most rings included a gemstone, typically the woman's birthstone, but diamonds were certainly not the gem of choice. Around the same time that the trend in engagement rings surged, the quantity of available diamonds increased. With well known figures such as Franklin Delano Roosevelt proposing to Eleanor with a "3.4-carat diamond ring from Tiffany & Co." in 1904, the diamond engagement ring grew in prominence (44).

 

In addition to providing an engaging overview of diamond usage and history in the last few centuries, Bergstein also relates compelling anecdotes about this gem. This book covers the rise of large jewelers known for selling diamonds including Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Harry Winston, and De Beers. Famous jewels such as the Star of the East and the Jonker are described. Additionally, famous names known for their jewels are detailed, including Wallis Simpson, Evalyn McLean, Jacqueline Kennedy, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana, Nicole Kidman, and Jennifer Lopez as well as rappers such as 2Pac, Jay Z, and Kanye West. This book reveals the powerful role the diamond industry has played in manufacturing diamonds as symbols of love through strategic advertising campaigns such as placing their jewels around the necks of the rich and powerful. Additionally, Bergstein exposes the atrocious practices behind diamond mining in some countries, which have led to the commonly known term "blood diamond."

 

I did find the organization of this book somewhat scattered in the opening chapters, which jumped around in time and subject before the book finally came to a smoother progression. Although I understand that this is already an immensely broad topic, I would have appreciated a bit more historical context surrounding diamonds and the use of jewels in general before the 1800s. However, Bergstein does an excellent job of covering a broad and internationally-ranging topic in a concise and easy to follow manner. I knew very little about the history of the diamond industry before reading this book and found this to be an excellent introduction and overview of the topic.

 

Stars: 4